The addition of Fuel Pump Compensators to enhance power with After Market Turbo Systems:There is quite a debate raging about Diesel Fuel Pump Modifications as people strive for more power than is standard from their After Market Turbo Charged 4WD! One of the main reasons driving this topic though is misinformation from diesel pump shops promising a large increase in power in addition to the gain obtained from the turbo! I have put our views below in point form.*An Aneroid is a $1000 to $1800 addition to the existing injection pump. It is solely classified by the component manufacturer as a Pollution Control Device fitted to factory turbo diesels. *Contrary to this it is promoted by Diesel Injection shops as a performance device for after market turbo installations! What people dont understand is that the same heavy fuel loadings obtainable with an Aneroid installed to a Diesel Injection Pump can also be obtained easily at no cost without it!! *A correctly set up diesel injection system in conjunction with an After Market Turbo installation will perform nearly as well as the equivalent Factory Turbo vehicle. This is the way the After Market Turbo System has been developed and it should stay that way. The Turbo System should perform Stand Alone with no additions like large exhausts and fuel pump modifications.*An Aneroid fitted to the injection pump of an After Market Turbo diesel makes it magically outperform a factory turbo equivalent safely. The reason for this is obvious- Over fuelling above the recommended levels UNSAFELY!*Over fuelling outside the Aftermarket Turbo System Manufacturers Specs may mean more power but this is unsafe for the engine.*The addition of an Aneroid to a fuel pump is not accepted by most aftermarket turbo manufacturers as it promotes over fuelling which in turn can create a huge reliability cloud over their product!*All After Market Turbo System Warranties become Void if a pump is modified outside the said After Market Manufactures specs! Just remember this if you have New Vehicle Warranty being covered by the After Market Turbo Manufacturer like DynamicTurboSystems does. You will lose your coverage!*The usual argument by the pump shop trying to sell an Aneroid as an addition to a turbo installation is that the engine will run smoother and produce better efficiency. As we say it has no relation to smoothness and the efficiency phrase is a catch!*The biggest concern is, What specification is the Aneroid set to? Again the usual story given to a potential customer by the diesel pump shop is that it is set to factory fuel specs. For starters there are NO factory fuel specs for After Market Turbo installations supplied by either the Original Vehicle Manufacturer or the After Market Turbo Manufacturer. Secondly the fuel spec that the diesel pump shop usually is talking about is the Genuine Factory turbo specs for fuel loadings. This is a real worry as the Factory turbo is usually a completely different combustion system with much more durable pistons to cope with heavy fuel loadings. To set up an After Market Turbo to match these fuel loadings would lead to an obvious eventual outcome! A damaged engine. Unfortunately this damage is not short term. It happens over time and usually rears its ugly head gradually. *The only Specifications supplied by Turbo System manufacturers are Boost Pressure, Air/Fuel ratios and Exhaust Temperatures (No engine output figures are ever supplied)! These were obviously not developed with a Fuel Pump Aneroid and so could not accurately be used with one!*At the end of the day it is a fact that if the fuel loadings are kept within the After Market Turbo Manufacturers specifications via Boost and Exhaust readings you will not only keep your warranty (which will most likely become Void if an Aneroid is fitted) you will have your diesel engine for the long term!!This leads to the next common area of misinformation: Dyno Tuning.*A Dyno is a device used for measuring power output at the wheels.*They are a being pushed as a real must have in the automotive scene of late as workshops compete for a selling edge. If you dont have one you must not know what you are doing is often the sales pitch used.* The truth is that they are not a must have. The real fact is that they are required more by suburban workshops due to the fact that they have no real road test areas! And again the Bells and Whistles must be good??*Real on road driving experience with test gear (air/fuel ratio meter - boost gauge) attached to the 4WD is the only way to obtain a true indication of the real operating conditions. An example of this is looking at factory development of vehicles and race vehicle testing. At the end of the day it is km after km of road testing that seals the job.*Smudging of dyno figures. Dyno figures can be smudged to give a false impression of gains. This is noted by us in the number of 4WD diesels we have seen through our workshop with impressive dyno figures but in the true world, lack lustre performance! It is even admitted by Dyno manufacturers.*Again no 4WD manufacturer or After Market Turbo manufacturer supplies rear wheel dyno figures to set things to. So question the workshop if they say they are setting the power output to a given figure. It might be well intentioned to set up a 4WD based on rear wheel output but identical 4WD diesel engines are slightly different from one to the next and even atmospheric conditions play a varying factor.In summary it pays be educated in making decisions in life. The Diesel Experts ( see http://www.thedieselexperts.com ) are here to educate and have been for many years. With the amount of misinformation out there on diesel and turbo charging diesels we feel obliged to inform you of the facts.
If you have are in love with your bike, chances are you will be very, very particular about what sort of exhaust pipes you use. The right ones can make your machine look and feel like a million dollar baby or make it a design nightmare.The motorcycle exhaust pipe has a very definite role to play in the dynamics of a bike. It directs the gases that come out of the combustion chamber, away from the machine and therefore the rider. Where do these gases come from and why is it important that they be directed away?The combustion engine in a motorcycle creates a series of explosions that propel the bike forward. Since we are talking of explosive combustion, we are talking of noise and exhaust gases. Now if these gases were thrown out straight from the exhaust port, you would have a problem on your hands. The front tyres would gradually melt under the heat and whats more, your machine would sound like a disgruntled missile.That is why bike manufacturers design the exhaust pipes carefully. These pipes take the emitted gas away from the exhaust port, pass them through what we call a muffler or a silencer and then throw them away behind the bike, away from the rider. By the time the gases pass out of the exhaust, they have already cooled off and there is little chance of any unwanted combustion.The technology used to silence the explosive gases is simple. The gases flow at a great speed into the motorcycle exhaust pipes, which are narrow. Then they enter the muffler, which has more space. As the gases expand into the body of the muffler, they slow down and lose some of the sound energy. There are perforated baffles in the muffler that reduce the noise further. So, by the time the gases emerge from the motorcycle exhaust pipes, the noise has been cut down to a reasonable level. It is also important to remember that a good exhaust design can increase the usable power generated by your bikes engine. Typically, motorcycle exhausts are of two kinds: the full exhaust system and the slip-on system. The full exhaust system connects the pipes to the head of the engine while the slip-on exhaust connects them to the opening where the muffler is. The former is ideal for those who run their machine at full throttle over long distance. The slip on exhaust system is usually used for street bikes. This allows a little more acceleration from the bike.
These days a number of Americans have their own cars; in one house approximately every member of the family is having their own separate cars. But, there are some people who still cannot buy a car, because it is out of their financial reach. For them, Government auctions can help to find out some good offerings that may make them a car owner!Although, a second hand car but now you can also purchase your own dream car at very low prices.If you thinking seriously about a car, you might want to go for auctions, if going by the auctions route, go for police auctions, simply the best one. They sell-off the cars that were seized or withdrawn from their active service.Once interested in a car, you can verify the vehicles history with the help of vehicle identification number (VIN). Further, you may see the list of vehicles, which are accessible or presented over the internet.All set for buying cars from police auctions, also get ready to bid! Yes in every auction you have to bid. As you know there are so many others just like you who wish to buy the same car that you want to. Just be careful before you bid, get to know more details about the car, the current market value and carefully estimate the bidding priceMoreover, there are six tips that you should follow when go to buy a second hand car:The Vehicle TiresTires are one of the costly parts in any car. So before finalizing the deal see whether the tires are in perfect or acceptable condition or not. At times, soon after buying a second hand car its tires needs to be replaced for safety. One should gauge the tires carefully; they are the reflection of how the vehicle is used.Number of scratchesScratches, the most visible artifacts that sometimes reduce the market value of a car. Just see, how many you can spot, check how considerable they are.DentsDents, big brother of scratches, they can be ignored at times, but clearly they depict how much you have to spend if you might want to remove them.Safety BeltsPlease check them, they do not impact the bidding value but replace them if in any doubts!Car WindshieldWindows should be in good working condition & there should be no single scratch on the windshieldPaintSooner or later you will have to suffer if there is a damage or problem with the car paint. So it will cost you so much (very high) if you get the car painted again.Finally, the MechanicsIf you dont know much about the mechanics of the car take an advice of a person who is familiar with it and have the feel of right and wrong. An experienced car mechanic can also help you a lot about the engine and other working conditions about the considered vehicle.Remember, just being a little shrewd might get you a good car that you will rover for the next many years.
Rocks, sticks and debris meet their doom when they hit a mud guard. There's plenty of other benefits to slapping-on a set of mud guards, including:- Cleaner fenders that'll save you a car wash or two - Dent and ding protection that preserves your paint - Sweet looks that go from mud-running master to smooth-style cruising - Durable, long-lasting materials that stand-up to virtually any barrageCleanliness it's godliness for your vehicleNobody likes that telltale sign they've been off-roadin' or trolling through puddles when you've only been cruising the streets. There's nothing decorative about the resulting splatter spread on your wheel wells, fenders and doors, either. By the time you get a chance to spray the mud off yourself or run your vehicle through the local touch-free car wash, that dirt is caked-on and dried like spackle.Any mud guard, splash guard or mud flap stops the cycle of splatter marks. In fact, a mud guard keeps the mess contained in the wheel wellout of sight and out of mind. Plus, mud is more likely to just fall off if it cakes inside the wheel well or on the back of the mud guard. Most times, you'll just need a few minutes with a garden sprayer to dislodge the dirt and get back to a showroom shine. By keeping the splatter away, your truck or SUV stays ready for any on or off-road adventure.A guide to mud guard protectionThere's a lot more than mud that can fly-up and hit your paint, and they do much more than cause a mess. Think of all the obstructions you see on or off road that tires could be shooting right at your doors and fenders: rocks, sticks, random metal pieces, tire treads and even roadkill. A good set of mud guards acts like an all-star goalie with all the kick-saves you need to keep your paint pristine. Dings, dents and chips meet a brick wall of coverage.Don't forget about potential damagers that are much more difficult to see and steer around. Sometimes it's freshly-painted lane lines or turn arrows. It might be new asphalt or tar that isn't quite dry. The corner cutting of a lackadaisical road crew can rob a few hours of your time, especially if enough tar or road paint makes its way onto your fenders. Thankfully, mud guards turn back the assault of these potential paint damagers, saving you time, energy, and rubbing compound.A reference on mud guard and mud flap looks Whether you spend your weekends churning through the deepest muck, or shuttling the kids to and from soccer with a side trip to the mini golf place, a nice set of mud guards or mud flaps can give your vehicle the look of an off-road commander. Or, a super long and flexible set of mud flaps helps you blend in with any convoy of 18-wheelers, which use these flaps to deflect costly windshield-wrecking rocks tossed at top speed.Some mud guards offer not only serious protection, but eye-catching ornamentation, too. These include steel or aluminum sheet mud guards that offer premium gleam and rigid protection. While they look great, they can be quite troublesome if you're wheel well-deep in the mess with your mud guards digging-in. Then again, if you're that deep in the mud, you're probably in trouble anyway. Best to stay on the hardball with a set of these metal mud guards.Looking for the pinnacle of mud guard looks? Many of AutoAnything's mud guards can be color-matched to your vehicle's finish. That's because they employ a textured surface that receives paint without the need for primer. Basic colors can be done at home; any paint tone can be matched by a local shop. The finished product blends seamlessly with the fender and wheel well shape of your vehicle, giving you an extra dose of custom looks the other rigs on the road don't have.The basics of mud guard materialsMud guards are offered in two basic material styles: sheet metal and rubber or rubber-composite. Both bring durability and longevity to your wheel wells, but they have a few distinct differences.Rubber/rubber-composite mud guards and mud flapsThey can be a flexible mud flap, or a stiff mud guard. Either way, rubber and rubber-composite guards bring the rigidity you need to thwart debris, and the durability to last through the rigors of life on your wheel well. Certain rubber mud guards come ready to paint match with your vehicle's original color.One issue with flexible rubber mud flaps is sail. At high speeds, wind resistance blows the flaps out of position to reject the full compliment of rocks, mud and moisture. That's why a premium flap-style mud guard employs bottom weights and/or a specialized frame that limits sail when you need coverage most.Sheet metal mud guardsOffered in both stainless steel and aluminum, sheet metal mud guards are usually best for decoration use only. Sure, they'll stop the splatter tossed rocks and even small-caliber bullets, but they can be a liability if they get caught in soft ground. Still, there's no other mud guards packing an extreme shine such as the one displayed by these. If looks and on-road protection are your goal, this is the way to go.
. To call a car or any product an Edsel is to provide the worst of insults. The Edsel was a car designed and manufactured by the Ford Motor Company of Dearborn in the late 1950s. 157, 1958, 1959 to be exact. The debacle of the Edsel was both one of the most spectacular and worst failures to befall the vibrant American automobile industry of that day. To call a car or any product an Edsel is to provide the worst of insults.Some authorities will state that the reason for the Edsels failure was just poor market timing, not a poor product. Timing can be said to be most everything vital for the success of failure of any product. In those days, before computerization allowed for rapid sharing an interchanges of design and the car design process everything was done on paper. It took great amount of physical logistics and delays for the paperwork and blueprints to be sent and coordinated among the various players in the automobile design process. On top of that it seemed that everyone seemed to despise and those further down the line. The designers disliked their bosses and the engineers. The engineers hated the parts people etc etc etc. On top of that the name Ford was on the door signifying the ultimate authority in the car designs and marketing process. The Edsel project was initiated during a time of big cars from G.M. the market leader , yet introduced many years later when the concept of a second car , a compact car, for the wife to drive the family and kids around was beginning to be established in the automobile marketplaceOther authorities will state that the reason for the poor market showing and demise of the Edsel was that it was just a poor product poorly designed and poorly built. To further corroborate this viewpoint it is now known that the actual workers building the Edsels were none too happy building this model. The Edsel was not built on its dedicated Ford Division production line but rather the Edsel was built (or shared space) on Ford Mercury Division production line. These Mercury Division employees considered themselves as the luxury end of the Ford Car company entities and indeed saw themselves as a cut above the run of the mill Ford employee and workers.They both resented the intrusion into their turf as they say it and as well felt that a Ford product was muscling into their terrain that of more prestige vehicles. In the end the marketing and sales failures of the Ford Edsel can be said to be a combination of both factors.Interestingly enough the unspoken order from the Ford family was that the new product the 1958 Edsel was to be named anything but Edsel. The late Edsel Ford was the founder Henry Fords only son and the grandfather of the then current patriarchs commanding and directing the Ford Empire. The senior Ford even stated that he did not want to see his late grandfathers name spinning around on hubcaps. The design development process had worked with the E or Experimental Car. Since it was such a major and revolutionary product of Ford many assumed that the designation E car had of course stood for Edsel. How better to honor such a major figure in the Ford family and empire. Imagine if the name had not stuck. Would it of made a difference in the ultimate success or failure of the sales and marketing of this automobile product.